Lovely Locks
www.nlcamerican.org
What a Curl Needs
Curl control, moisturization, prevention of hair breakage and frizz are the primary issues to address when formulating products specifically for textured hair. Tightly coiled hair has elliptical cross-section diameters changing along the hair fiber length as it twists.
The number of cuticle layers along the hair shaft also varies, with weak spots created at the point of curvature where there are fewer layers. The cuticle consists of a number of tightly overlapping layers coated with 18-MEA, a hydrophobic lipid which minimizes the amount of water going in and out of the underlying cortex and plays an important role in protecting hair. Raised cuticles and loss of the lipid covering results in negatively charged “weathered” hair, characterized by tangling, frizz, breakage and loss of curl structure.
Curl geometry means that the helical configuration creates areas where the overlapping cuticle layers are unable to close, making textured hair more porous and vulnerable. Textured hair is also prone to dryness as natural lubricating oils produced by sebaceous glands in the scalp can’t “slide” down the shaft to reach the ends because of the bends and kinks.
Conditioning product efficacy is determined by the formula’s ability to neutralize the negative charge of damaged hair, as well as reduce static, and smooth and flatten the cuticle. Primary conditioning agents are positively-charged molecules and include cationic surfactants, polymers and amino functional silicones.
The negative charge of the hair is attracted to the positively-charged molecules resulting in good deposition on the strands, particularly on the more negatively-charged damaged areas. Secondary conditioning agents include emollients and oils, occlusive agents and humectants to lubricate and reduce friction between hair fibers to give a smooth feel and improve combability.
Shea-based Emollients
Shea offers an excellent sustainable, biodegradable alternative to synthetic ingredients as secondary conditioners in hair care products. Shea butter has long been used as a natural hair emollient by women in rural African communities. Shea butter is massaged into the scalp or used to coat hair strands to help seal in moisture and protect against the hot, dry climate.
Jeri Alander, 2017
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